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Jumat, 30 September 2011
Nina Ricci Spring 2012 Collection
“Very chic, very French.” That’s how Peter Copping described his spring collection for Nina Ricci. He might have added charming, as, in what is shaping up as a strong, diverse Paris season, he offered some of its most unabashedly flirtatious clothes.
Like others this season, Copping is thinking haute — “Sixties couture, if you like” — but unlike those going the power-architecture route, his approach was all feminine, from the curvy, lacy bejeweled clothes to the straw cage hats, which, he said, recalled the days when Alexandre de Paris, rather than Guido Palau (who did his models’ hair) ruled the Paris beauty scene. Starting with constructed lingerie, Copping showed suited looks and dresses, both full-skirted and hourglass, in laces, cloqués and printed jacquards. He embellished with delicate patchworks and encrustations of high-sparkle embroideries. And lest it all swing too precious, he incorporated the occasional biker twinge, albeit gentled up in a short jacket over a cocktail or a pale leather trench.
About the prints, which worked the fresh side of retro, they came from the archive Zina de Plagny, after whom Copping named his collection and who’d done a great deal of work for the house founder. In a moment of celestial alignment of the sartorial sort, Copping saw an article on de Plagny’s daughter and keeper of her archive. He intended to contact her, but she found him first. He took his patterns directly from the de Plagny archive, gentle florals memorable in contrast with all of the season’s screamers.
Copping has carved a strong yet challenging niche for himself at Nina Ricci. Every now and then, bolder evolutionary strides from one season to the next will be essential if he’s to retain the excitement factor. But one cannot deny the appeal of these clothes for the woman who wants to be ladylike and sexy at the same time.
Via WWD
Kamis, 22 September 2011
Dolce & Gabbanna to End D&G Line
Dolce & Gabbana has confirmed it will close its D&G line from next season and merge it with its mainline collection, making today's fashion show the brand's last. The move was in order to give "even more strength and energy to our collections" a statement from the designers said today.
The spring/summer 2012 was rumoured to be the brand's final offering during the previous Milan Fashion Week in March, WWD reported. It is understood that D&G is behind a significant portion of the company's growth and profits, but it is hoped the merger will strengthen the Dolce & Gabbana line.
Via Vogue
Gucci RTW Spring 2012 Collection
Frida Giannini has been on something of a roll of late, her last few collections delivering her signature Gucci flash with an essential tony hand. The trend continued for spring with a lineup that was solidly on trend without straying from the designer’s own, ever more confident wavelength. Wistful elegies to Gatsby — not Giannini’s thing. Thus, she played the power side of the Jazz Age, which made perfect sense for her Gucci girl.
By day, the connection to the decade du jour came not via silhouette (save for some dropped-waist dresses) but decoration. In fact, short, shapely jackets over high-waisted pants tapered toward the ankles swung Eighties, but they were worked in a Deco-worthy palette, primarily black, white and gold with shots of green. The jackets boasted Giannini’s “hard decor” — whether pristinely audacious, jewelry-inspired closures or mega graphics à la the Chrysler Building. In terms of surface interest there was more going on in riffs on animalia (a sort-of zebra pattern in two-tone python), and a mega scarf print, shown as a dress and, in the collection’s only serious don’t-go-there moment, pants.
For evening, Giannini gave in more fully to the charms of the flapper. She co-opted her chemise and dropped-waist silhouettes and lavished them with audacious architectural goings on crafted from sequins, metal, Plexiglas paillettes and miles of metal chain fringe. It made for one successful shimmy — the kind that will shake on off the runway looking all as good on client, celebrity and civilian alike.
Via WWD
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