McCartney is designated the official creative designer for the British Olympic Team in the 2012 games, which might explain the athletic elements that crept into her clothes, including slithers of perforated breathable fabrics sliced into little crepe dresses, and oversize polo shirts and bomber jackets. But the mood was one of effortless sophistication.
The little slip dresses that were a motif of the show recalled McCartney’s earliest collections when she reinvented old-fashioned underwear as modern outerwear, shrugging tweedy jackets over thirties looking petticoat slips. These have now acquired a thoroughly modern chic, edged and scrolled with rococo volutes (sometimes re-embroidered in a thick braid that gave a seductive swing to the hems of her skirts). There was modern romance too in the insets of self-colored lace that licked the little dresses and blouses in white, ultramarine, or wine crepe de chine.
McCartney took men’s tie and cravat foulard silks with a paisley or geometric motif—of the type found in Old World menswear emporia—and used those for pant and short suits with the ease of pajamas. These looked particularly sharp when McCartney mixed the patterns together, building up to a delirium of color and print combinations in the body-skimming finale dresses that had a whimsical, kinetic charm.
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